Ageing is the most natural part of our lives, yet we continuously try to ‘reverse’ the process or ‘reduce’ its effects with every skin care product that we use. Youthful skin is associated with a plump, bright and tight complexion and because skin protein levels like collagen and elastin fall with age, this youthful complexion seems further and further out of reach as we advance past our twenties. There are, however, many ways that you can hold onto that youthful complexion for as long as possible and fight against the ageing process, starting with the establishment of an effective skincare routine.
This blog outlines the main causes and effects of ageing skin and highlights the most effective ways to prevent and reduce wrinkles, fine lines, dark circles, dryness and sagging.
The importance of having an anti-ageing skincare routine
In both men and women, the reproductive hormone oestrogen falls in levels every year after the age of 20. Oestrogen is a crucial hormone in maintaining healthy and vibrant skin because it activates oestrogen receptors in skin cells to produce elastin and collagen, and to increase cell turnover, which gives the appearance of plump and youthful-looking skin. In addition to oestrogen levels, moisture levels fall with age and accentuate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as making the skin more vulnerable to oxidative damage from free radicals in the environment.
It is essential to have an anti-ageing skincare routine if you, like most of us, want to have the best version of your skin that you can possibly get. The perfect anti-ageing skincare routine will target issues like fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles under the eyes, fluctuating moisture levels, and age spots.
What’s the difference between anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle?
Anti-ageing is the treatment and prevention of all the cumulative effects of the ageing process, whereas anti-wrinkle is targeted purely at diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Whereas wrinkles tend to form only in mature adults, the ageing process whereby oestrogen levels decline begins at age 20. People in their 20s and 30s should incorporate anti-ageing treatments into their skincare routine even though they do not necessarily see signs of wrinkles on areas such as the face, neck and hands.
When should you start anti-ageing?
Dermatologists recommend you start incorporating anti-ageing treatments into your skincare routine in your 20s in order to strengthen the protective barrier of the skin and keep it hydrated. The first and most important step in the anti-ageing skincare routine is sunscreen in order to prevent UV damage, as the sun speeds up the process of ageing and degrades the skin. When we’re in our twenties and thirties the subcutaneous fat below the surface of the skin is tight and firm, but collagen levels begin to fall by 1% every year after the age of 20 and eventually this will appear on the skin as a loss of plumpness and elasticity. The best way to prevent and protect against the ageing process is to slowly start incorporating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, bakuchiol, AHAs and BHAs in your mid-twenties. As the best way to protect your skin from ageing is simply to look after it through establishing an effective skincare routine and maintaining a healthy lifestyle, it is never too early!
At what age does your face change most?
For most people, the face changes the most during our forties and fifties due primarily to hormonal changes. For females, this usually coincides with the menopausal years.
Within the first 5 years of menopause, skin collagen levels decrease by 30%.
In each subsequent year of menopause, skin collagen levels decrease by 1%.
In each postmenopausal year, skin thickness declines by 1%.
In both males and females, the reduction of oestrogen levels decreases defence against oxidative stress, which means that collagen production decreases and skin becomes thinner, leading to increased wrinkling, decreased elasticity and decreased moisture.
The first signs of ageing commonly appear as a noticeable line between the eyebrows, dark under eye circles and a collection of excess skin at the jaw. Gradually structural changes from bone movement and muscle laxing causes sagging and thinning.
Although the ageing process is completely natural and is largely caused by genetics and hormones, lifestyle factors within your control have a significant effect on the rate of the process. Unhealthy behaviours like smoking, substance abuse, poor nutrition, stress, excess exposure to sunlight and failure to protect the skin from high pollution levels all have an effect on your hormones and your skin.
It’s crucial to look after your inward health to maintain the appearance of outward health. This includes eating a healthy balanced diet consisting primarily of whole, unprocessed foods, a high volume of fruits and vegetables and drinking a lot of water. Also remember that stress has a huge effect on our hormones and can lead to premature signs of ageing; especially during this pandemic, it’s imperative to look after our mental and physical health, which will manifest on the outside as a vibrant and glowing version of you.
Does moisturising prevent ageing?
The falling oestrogen levels that come with the ageing process cause the skin to become thinner and drier, which means that dark blood vessels beneath the skin become more visible and lead to the formation of dark under eye circles.
Furthermore, falling oestrogen levels slow down the body’s natural production of oil and reduce its ability to retain moisture. Moisturising is essential in all skincare routines of all ages, but as we get older it becomes even more crucial.
Moisturising the face and the body twice per day will help to alleviate dryness, itchiness, and will yield a more even complexion. Depending on the natural sensitivity of your skin, avoid using water that is too hot directly on the skin as it can be damaging, especially to thin and dry skin.
How do you start an anti-ageing routine?
If you are in your twenties and thirties, your main concern when starting an anti-ageing routine is prevention.
The first step in any skincare routine at any age is cleanser. Swap any harsh cleansers for a gentler alternative that will remove the surface dirt from your face at the beginning and end of the day without stripping the skin.
Next is exfoliation. This is an essential process for healthy skin in which the dead skin cells are eliminated and fresh, new skin is revealed underneath. The older we get, the slower the rate of cell turnover, which allows dead skin cells to build up, leaving the skin dull and forming fine lines and wrinkles. Exfoliators speed up the process of cell turnover and allow the skin to repair itself, which helps us to look smoother and brighter.
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) are chemical ingredients that naturally exfoliate the skin without the harshness of manual scrubs that can cause tearing and irritation. As we get older, it’s crucial to be gentle to our skin! Popular AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid, which are often incorporated into cleansers and serums directed towards people will dry, normal or ageing skin. Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is a natural chemical exfoliant loosens the tight bonds between dead skin cells on the skin surface to reveal fresh new layers of skin underneath. It has a small molecular structure so it’s great for penetrating deep into the skin, however it may be too strong for some people with sensitive skin. Lactic acid is a little milder because it has a larger molecular structure meaning it can’t penetrate as deeply, but it is still an effective exfoliant that will increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. Alternatively, BHAs such as salicylic acid are especially good for people with oily and combination skin. They penetrate deep into the pores and dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, removing them from the surface, and pushes sebum and bacteria out from inside the pores and eliminates them from the skin.
Serums are the key for maintaining healthy skin and are designed to deliver high concentrations of active ingredients to the skin. Whether it’s an exfoliant, a hyaluronic acid serum, a peptide serum, a retinol serum or a combination of them all, this is the step to introduce the most intense formulas of powerful ingredients to target specific skin problems.
4. Eye Cream
This is not necessarily an essential skin care step but eye wrinkle cream is proven to minimise dark circles under eyes by plumping and hydrating the skin around the eye area while reducing puffiness. Because aged skin is usually thinner and drier, dark blood vessels beneath the skin become more visible, which leads to the formation of dark circles under the eyes. This is worsened by dehydration and sun overexposure.
Moisturiser is crucial for keeping the skin hydrated. A lack of moisture can cause oil production to go into overdrive in the attempt to compensate for dryness, which can then lead to clogged pores and the production of acne. You should moisturise every morning and night.
Of course, always wear Sunscreen. Especially for anti-ageing, SPF is the most important step in the skin care routine because of the damaging effects of UV rays. Many dermatologists say that failure to wear SPF on the face during the day prevents your skin care products from working properly.
What is the number 1 skincare brand?
The best skincare brand for you depends on your age, skin type and skin concerns. For those looking to prevent and reduce signs of skin ageing, the number one skincare brand recommended by dermoi! is Endocare.
Endocare is an advanced skincare brand developed by the Spanish company Cantabria Labs that uses patented technologies to prevent and reduce signs of skin ageing. They are one of the most scientifically advanced brands backed by over 20 years of clinical research.
Endocare use high quality ingredients and world-class technologies in their skincare products, offering quality results at affordable price points. They have different skincare ranges such as the essential, cellpro and tensage ranges that tackle different skin concerns and are targeted towards different audiences. For example, the essential range is more suitable for younger skin, while the cellpro or tensage ranges redensify and regenerate the skin using anti-wrinkle technologies.
Some of their best anti-ageing treatments recommended by dermatologists include the Cell Pro Cream for long-lasting hydration and antioxidant protection against environmental damage; the Tensage Cream for mature skin to increase tautness and firmness; the Vitamin C Ferulic Edafence Serum to brighten, tighten and regenerate; and the Tensage Serum for natural skin repair, anti-inflammation and moisturisation.
How can I rebuild collagen in my face?
Collagen is a protein in the body with the primary role of providing structure to the skin and helping the blood to clot. Elastin is also a protein in the body that makes the skin able to stretch and then return to its original shape. As collagen and elastin levels fall with age, the skin begins to appear saggy, wrinkled, leathery, thin and dry. In order to rebuild collagen levels, the skin needs to be stimulated to increase cell turnover, exfoliated regularly, kept moisturised and protected from oxidative damage.
The best way to effectively and safely rebuild collagen in the face is to have clinical treatments. Dermoi!’s clinical facial treatments at home are a fantastic way to go beyond the surface of the skin to stimulate deep tissue repair, cell regeneration and collagen production. Both the Anti-Ageing Vitamin Infusion and the Anti-Ageing Facial Peel are the best anti-ageing facial treatments that provide quick and effective results. They are suitable for all skin types and use galvanic technology, ultrasonic stimulation, vibrational facial massage and LED light therapy to stimulate regeneration and reverse skin damage. Paring facial treatments with Endocare’s products will reduce wrinkles, strengthen the skin and protect against the cumulative signs of ageing.
Author: Megan Kerr